Going Grey: Alternatives to Folding Knives with Pocket Clips

Authors Note

“Going Grey” will be an ongoing series that deals with How the average civilian joe can be more “Grey Man” in both his mentality, his wardrobe and his weapons load out. **Sorry, but it will not be a series of articles on how you old farts can hide your grey hair more effectively, but if you stick around long enough, we may eventually get to that subject, who knows.

Also, since this article deals with knives, ie weapons, it is for informational purposes only. Please check with your state and local laws before carrying any weapon so your ass does not get thrown in jail for ignorance of stupid state or local laws.

Yours Truly

The Tactical Hermit

pocket-clip

I am sure almost all of you have some type of folding knife with a pocket clip in your EDC repertoire. It has been the standard “go-to” knife for a very long time for both the Civilian and Law Enforcement Officer alike.

But let me present a question to you: If you have a Concealed Carry License, or happen to live in one of those wonderful Constitutional Carry States, Why do you carry concealed handguns COMPLETELY concealed and when it comes to knives, allow a pocket clip to show and alert the world you have a knife on your person?

Now I know part of the answer to that is it is the LAW. In most States, the law is very plain that if you possess a Concealed Carry License and are carrying a firearm on your person, you must make every attempt to COMPLETELY conceal your weapon from public view while it is on your person, so as to not scare the sheep, right?

My point is this: Regardless if you carry a concealed handgun or not, Why the double standard with a knife? Wouldn’t it make more sense to be COMPLETELY concealed with BOTH a handgun and a knife? After all, if a criminal or just nosy by-standard sees that tell-tell knife pocket clip they might deduce you have some other weapon on your person, right? Why telegraph you are armed at all? We don’t want to scare the sheep! We might inadvertently cause a stampede!

Before we get too far with this, let’s look at the legality of carrying a fixed blade knife concealed. Now I know some of you poor souls live in States with not only ridiculous gun laws but also flat-out retarded knife laws. For you folks, I am truly, truly sorry. The only advice I can give you is Move!

But for the purposes of this article, we will be looking at what is LEGAL in Texas and Only Texas.

For the record, I disagree with Texas Knife Laws across the board. I think they are extremely dated and need to be re-done immediately. The ban on automatics for civilians and not Law Enforcement for example is stupid. Why is a 3.5 inch automatic knife any more dangerous than a 4.5 inch fixed blade? Because I can push a button?? Dumb. Also the ban on Bowie Knives is just plain Anti-Texan if you ask me!

OK, so here is the quick legal breakdown on knives in Texas.

Texas Penal Code 46.01 states an “Illegal Knife” is ANY knife (folder or fixed blade) with a blade length of over 5 1/2 inches, a Bowie Knife, Dagger, Sword or Spear.  “Daggers” Which are blades that have 2 sharpened edges, which would include “push” knives like the Bechmade CBK or Cold Steel’s Urban Edge or SafeMaker line. Please note, it does not matter if the dagger blade is under 5 1/2 inches, just the fact it is a dagger, regardless of its blade size, makes it ILLEGAL TO CARRY IN TEXAS. 

As far as Carrying a knife open or concealed, there is no law regarding that in Texas. The only thing you have to concern yourself with is:

  • Blade Length
  • Is it a Dagger
  • Bowie Knife
  • or a Switchblade (ie Automatic Knife listed in PC 46.05 Prohibited Weapons).

So knowing this, let me give you an alternative to carrying that folding knife clipped in your pocket.

How about carrying a 3 to 5 Inch Fixed Blade knife Horizontal on your belt at around 11 or 11:30?

  • It’s Legal (In Texas anyway)
  • It’s Faster to Deploy than a Folder
  • It’s More Reliable than a Folder
  • You maintain Continuity of Structure if you use Appendix Carry for your Handgun

dscn3050

dscn3051

Shown above are my two everyday carry blades. I plan to add a Shivworks Clink Pick to this collection soon.

On Top is a Blackhawk Crucible  with a 3.2″ Blade and on Bottom is a SOG Snarl with a 2.3″ Blade.

Both have excellent sheaths for horizontal carry, with the Blackhawk having the TCCS Carry System which allows you to switch between 70 different carry positions.

I have found both of these knives extremely easy to conceal with just jeans and a t-shirt and with a carry position of between 10 o’clock and 11:30 (12 o’clock being your centerline) the drawstroke is very similar to my AIWB Gun Holster (Appendix Carry) which gives you Continuity of Structure in your weapon systems which is always a plus.

As always, practice your drawstroke with these knives and getting it from “Sheath to Flesh” as quickly as possible.

So there it is guys, easy-peazy, down and dirty and KISS Simple as Hell!

Stay Alert, Stay Armed and Stay Dangerous!

 

Blade Drills: Perfecting the “Snap” Cut & Thrust

SOG Snarl

SOG Snarl

I have been drilling lately with my small “hideout” waist-carried fixed blade knives, mainly, my Benchmade CBK and SOG Snarl.

Benchmade CBK

Benchmade CBK

Training Notes:

  • Since both of these shivs have an unconventional grip (CBK  is a syringe type, the Snarl a single-finger loop, claw design), striking is a bit more unorthodox than if I were using a standard blade with a conventional type grip. The upside to these types of blades is that RETENTION is not an issue, no matter if your hands get wet (from sweat or blood), the way the blade is gripped with the fingers and not the palm, ensures a SOLID purchase.
  •  Since I mainly carry these small fixed blades horizontal on my waist at around 10:30 to 11:00,(drawing with my right hand) I designed all my drills for that type of draw. If you want to work on drawing from say a neck knife sheath, you will have to tweak these drills to fit that range of motion.
  • Also, as I subscribe to the COMBATIVE school of defensive knife training, almost all of these movements are based on simple GROSS MOTOR functions with very little fine motor technique involved. (No complicated katas, etc.) Therefore, to fully maximize the tactical advantage these types of knives offer (which is Size and Speed) You must work to make the draw AND the first initial cut or thrust ONE FLUID, QUICK MOTION.
  • The key word in these drills is “SNAP”, so remember that as you drill…your goal is to quickly SNAP the blade out and into the Attacker and withdraw before they know what hit them.

A quick word about TARGETING. I know a lot of quality knife instructors out there teach to target the attackers ability to WIELD or HOLD a weapon (tendons and nerves in arms/hands, etc.) and their ability for movement (muscles and nerves in legs). Most of this comes from liability and ethical issues in not wanting to teach people outright how to kill with a knife, but to disable. I understand the reasoning for this, but as a trainer and as a citizen, I DO NOT SUBSCRIBE to that school of thought.

I believe that if I am having to use a knife to defend myself, things have gone bad, and it has gone WAY past simply disarming or disabling the attacker.

Simply put, when I train to defend myself with either with a knife or firearm, I train to KILL, not to DISABLE or WOUND.

Since a FIREARM and a KNIFE are  both considered LETHAL WEAPONS, WE NEED TO USE THEM AS SUCH, and have no qualms or remorse about it.. I can guarantee you your enemy will not!

That being said, with these types of knives at least, I train to target everything from the “neck up”, With the carotid arteries in the neck being the primary and the eyes being the secondary. This is not to say these are our ONLY targets, but the ones we need to have in mind. Remember: We are FIGHTING FOR OUR LIFE, so ANY STRIKE you can make with the blade and hurt the attacker is a GOOD STRIKE.

Gun-Free-China-Knives

To Slash or Stab? That is the Question….

I get asked this question a lot and I really don’t have a direct answer. I guess the easiest answer is: USE WHATEVER THE ATTACKER “GIVES” YOU!  If he opens himself up to a slash, do that; If you can do more damage with a thrust, then do that. The COMBATIVE MENTALITY is really one of flexibility, not black and white strict discipline. This is what separates it from the more technique laden Filipino and oriental knife styles.

Remember that COMBATIVES stresses GROSS MOTOR MOVEMENTS, and whether you choose to slash or stab,as long as you put POWER behind it, both techniques can benefit. More to the point, despite prolific urban myths, there is also the issue of the AMOUNT OF DAMAGE that can be obtained with BOTHTHRUST and a SLASH. Contrary to popular belief, small blades (like the ones I am using, both well under 3 inches) can penetrate human flesh and do massive amounts of damage just like a big 4″ blade can. How? The short answer is FLESH COMPRESSION (Visit Don Rearic’s Site to Learn More) Human flesh, like the material in most bed mattresses, compresses when pressure is applied. This allows a very small blade to do cut through and do serious damage, if the targeting is correct. Now, does this mean, as some online mall-ninja’s have claimed, that I can stab you in the heart or liver with a small 2″ blade? No, but armed with this knowledge, the CO can definitely make serious cuts and thrust if need be and that is a HUGE benefit to the CO who, because of the legal restrictions of his particular state, cannot carry a large fixed blade or folder!

A side note about these two blades I am using. The CBK, being a “Push Dagger” is much more suited by design for thrust (stabs) than cuts (slashing), while the Snarl can do both, but is really more well suited for slashing. Despite this, I still train for both types of attacks: THRUST and SLASH. I highly recommend you do the same and never “pigeonhole” a blade for only one type of attack;.this keeps you flexible and ready to adapt on your feet.

Equipment for Drills

I highly recommend you DO NOT use a partner in these drills, as the risk for injury is way too high. Instead, try the following:

  • Reduced Meat. Go to the “bargain” or “reduced price” section in your local supermarket meat department..look for any cuts of meat that are thick, say at least an inch or two..roast are great, but flank steak will work too, as they are the cuts typically marked down or expired by a few days. Take this meat and wrap it in some old denim or an old shirt. As far as how to secure it, you have a couple of choices: Use a large hook and hang it or tie it with baling wire and affix it to a pole and then plant it in the ground securely. (Make sure you keep the wire away from the center sections where you are going to strike!)
  • Gloves. Anytime I train or work with knives, I wear a pair of kevlar-cut proof gloves. These are the same gloves I use when skinning fish or game. We never intend to cut ourselves, but it happens. Smart training is about controlling the risk as much as possible, but still staying as realistic as possible at the same time. Now, will we be wearing kevlar gloves during a fight on the street? probably not, but then again, we won’t be wearing hearing protection when we have to use a gun on the street either; never excuse safety for realism guys, that is stupidity!
  • More Safety. I mentioned about not having any partners for this, but also before you start, make sure no unfortunate soul wanders into your “ZONE OF ATTACK” during your drills! This includes any curious children, wives, even pets. If you are like me, you get into your own “mental zone” during training and the rest of the world kind of fades away, make sure you prepare for this.

knife_danger_3_small

Drills

1. BackHand SNAP-CUT

This drill requires fluidity of motion in harmonizing your DRAW (Presentation) and the first CUT together. The goal is to go straight from the sheath into the attackers flesh. For this particular drill, I visualize the attackers neck, and slashing the throat ear to ear. The draw stroke and strike come together as your elbow is coming from a 90 degree bend into a straight line to the target. Really strive to “snap” the strike through, not just into the target.

2. Back-Hand SNAP-THRUST

Same ideal as above but with a thrust or stab. You will want to visualize your target area (carotid in neck) before you draw and then in one motion go from sheath to flesh. Also practice doing multiple strikes.

3. Over-Hand SNAP-CUT

Now this is where your draw and strike are going to have a moment of pause in between when you “LOAD” for the strike as you slash forward. Again, visualize your target and cut through them, not just into them.

4. Over-Hand SNAP-THRUST

This is where targets of opportunity we talked about come into play. Don’t be afraid to mix up your target areas..if the neck is open to you, go for it, if the chest is open, go for it. Remember, with over-hand, you have more time to “RELOAD” your strike, so don’t hold back.

5. Combinations

Just like with boxing, once we have developed a certain punch, we need to join it with another punch to give it more lethality and flexibility. With the back-hand strikes, a cut then thrust, with the over-hand, a thrust with a follow-up cut. Use your imagination and find what works best for you. Keep in mind, you ALWAYS want to utilize SPEED and SURPRISE.

Final Thoughts:

  • Be prepared in ALL of these drills to find the best way to “reload” your strike in the event of a miss. Misses will happen, so plan for it.
  • Pay attention to your footwork, just like with empty-hand combative striking, using our body weight to give our strikes more force is just as relevant with knife work. Never fail to make  your SNAP Cut or Thrust an EXPLOSIVE movement.
  • MOVE YOUR FEET! No fight happens in a vacuum, and despite what Hollywood shows us, nobody stands still in a lethal encounter. As I have discussed before the Combative Continuum allows us to use the same type of footwork, regardless of the weapon in our hand.
  • Just like with any combatives, the need to create or maintain distance can be done with solid empty-hand striking. Look at employing elbow, knee and even off-hand striking (your non-knife hand) to do this.

Train Hard, Stay Aware, Stay Armed and Stay Dangerous!