Gear Review: IWC’s Mini-CQB Light

Since bad things tend to happen at night, I am a firm believer in having a serious light on all your “Social” Firearms, most especially the long guns you keep around the house for Protection.

Impact Weapon Components latest weapon mounted flashlight offering, the Mini-CQB Weapons Light is up for Review, and what an amazing light this is.

Here is a short breakdown of features direct from IWC’s Website:

• 375 LUMENS from a single CR123A Battery
• Dedicated Modular Weaponlight with 375 lumen LED Module, Rotary Momentary & Twist-on Tailcap, Crenulated Bezel, fully potted electronics for extreme durability under heavy recoil, 6061-T6 Billet, Black Type III HC Anodize.
• Impact Weapons Components proven Offset Cantilevered Mount is integrated into the light body, eliminating the need for a separate mount and fastners to secure the light body to the light mount.
• Select your mount for either 1913 Picatinny or BOTH M-LOK® and Keymod by using IWC’s KML Modular Mount.
• Pick your own tailcap from a variety of Elzetta tailcap interface options (Strobe, High/Low, Twist, Etc.)
• Prices vary by Model and Features; see IWC’s Price List HERE

The specific Model I received and will be testing is the 1913 Picatinny mount with the standard click on/off tailcap.

The weapon I will be testing it on is my latest project weapon, the Yugo M92  AK-47 Pistol. 

The Mounting for this specific weapon was quite easy, since Manticores Renegade Forearm accepts Magpul’s MOE Rails, I simply Installed a 7 Slot MOE Rail on the left side and was ready to go, but any Standard 1913 Picatinny rail will work.

The Entire mounting process is a snap, and can be done in 2 minutes with an allen wrench. Simply loosen the two allen screws and position on your 1913 Rail and then tighten. You will see right away the upper and lower claw design  and how it attaches.

On this particular weapon, I positioned the light so I could operate the tailcap with my left thumb without much effort, while maintaining a solid grip. What is really cool is the tailcap on/off switch also allows for MOMENTARY operation for those times when you do not need a CONSTANT beam. This works well for a quick “peek” or to quickly blind and intruder if need be.

At it’s heart, this little power-house is still an Elzetta; one of the toughest tactical lights made, so you can take heart it will take the abuse and like the Energizer Bunny, keep going and going.

There are several perks I notice right away with the light, the primary ones being size and weight. You hardly feel or notice it on your weapon. And for being only around 4 inches long, you don’t have to worry about snagging or banging it on walls or anything else for that matter, as you maneuver.

You will be surprised at the POWER this thing packs! For a small light that uses only one CR123 Battery it is amazing. No Hot Spots and an even, smooth coverage with no noticeable borders.

Being that this would primarily be a light I would have on my long gun while searching or clearing the house, I snapped a few to give you an ideal.

 

 

 

So there it is in a snap guys, the IWC CQB Mini-Light.

Stay Alert, Stay Armed, Stay Illuminated and Stay Dangerous!

 

 

The HCS CO Yugo M92 AK-47 Pistol

The Yugoslavian PAP M92 AK-47 Pistol is one of the better AK pistols to hit the U.S. Market in some time. And similar to the other AK pistol offerings on the market such as the Draco and Mini-Draco,(see my review of the Mini-Draco HERE.) these guns are only IMPORTED and not MANUFACTURED (or ASSEMBLED) by Century Arms Intl. The M92 is 100% produced in the famous Zastava Arms Plant in Serbia; the same plant that produced the M70 line of AK Rifles. The M70AB2 Underfolder is quite possible, and in this shooter’s opinion, one of the BEST KIT AK’s you can buy.

So, where does the AK Pistol fit into the CO’s arsenal? Good Question. Read an old article of mine to find out HERE.

Any AK, in order to be a fighting weapon, is going need a FEW modifications to be useful and more reliable. Now I have been shooting and training with AK’s even before they were cool, and I am well aware of the two schools of thought regarding modifying AK’s: You have the “Modernist” and the “Purist”. The Modernist like to treat the AK like an AR and hang everything they can off the gun besides a tactical toaster. The Purist, on the other hand, keep the gun within it’s design parameters: SIMPLE. The only mods these guys make are very basic and mostly internal..like a better trigger, retainer plate, etc.

I guess, as time has passed, I fall somewhere in between, because like the Purist, I believe to get the most out of any weapon, you have to use it (and more importantly TRAIN WITH IT) the way it was designed, but also, like the modernist, I believe that we live in 2015 and not 1947, and just like the Russian Army is currently doing, the AK platform can be modernized and improved to be more deadly and efficient than Mikhail Kalashnikov ever imagined in 1947.

I will go through what mods I did to the gun, starting with some basic gunsmith work.

• Install Trigger Retainer Plate

Every AK or Saiga Shotgun you own should have this part installed first. Never trust the reliability of your weapon to  the “sheperds hook” (a piece of wire). Replace it with a steel plate. I cannot emphasize this enough. The AK is undoubtedly one of the most reliable weapons in the world, BUT, if there is going to be a failure, typically it is going to be one of two things: your magazine or your trigger group. Simple way to help avoid that: Don’t buy cheap polymer magazines and install a retainer plate on every AK you own! I got mine from CNC Warrior. (Heads up: I have heard some of the other Retaining Plates (like Tapco’s) must be modified to fit the M92, but CNC’s fits like a charm).

• Polish Trigger Shelf

Every AK I have ever owned with either the stock trigger or the Tapco G2 have had gritty trigger resets; this is not so much a “con” of the AK as some say as it is an opportunity for you to learn how to work on your trigger group. As I always have said: If you are gonna train and carry a weapon for self-defense, learn to work and repair them yourself! Notice I said “Polish” not “File”; big difference in those two words! You don’t want to take any material away as you just want to “clean” up the shelf of the hammer.

• Dremel Off spot weld

You are going to want to remove that spot welded thread protector and install a decent flash hider or muzzle brake. This is fairly easy to do with a good dremel too and there are plenty of YouTube vids showing you how if you are not sure. I will give you a few tips: Be Patient! and if the protector wont screw off easily, you have not cut the weld completely. Don’t go torquing on your barrel with vice grips, you can warp your barrel! Also remember, this is a LH thread so it is opposite of the old adage “Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty”. You must turn it clockwise (right) to loosen.

• Clean threads on muzzle

There will be cosmoline on the threads when you remove the thread nut, so be sure and clean this off. Also, after you finish all your internal work, CLEAN the gun spotless, especially around the trigger group. Make sure no small filings or metal chips have fallen inside.

• Install Detent Pin 

Before you install any muzzle device, you are going to want to install a detent pin, otherwise, no matter how tight you screw on that muzzle device, it will eventually back out on you. You can buy these inexpensive kits from several places, I got mine from CNC Warrior, but Rapid Fire Tek also carries them.

• Install Quality Muzzle Brake

Obviously you are not going to leave the threads bare, so invest in a good flash hider or muzzle brake. I purchased two different ones to try: the Eclipse Flash Hider from Manticore Arms and the old school authentic “Krink” Shorty “Booster” Brake from CNC Warrior. As you will see in the Field Test coming up soon, this gun is a fire-breathing Dragon, so taming it on the “business end” is going to be a priority.

• Install Quality Grip

All shooters have their favorite type of grips, and I prefer Hogue soft grips on my AK’s. I have huge meat hooks, so I like a grip that is comfortable and really swells up and fills the hand.

• Install SB-47 Brace

Believe me when I tell you, that this little invention is worth the money for large-caliber pistols like the AK!

• Install RFT’s SB-47 Adjustable Spacer, Locking Plate and QD Swivel

This nifty piece of kit from my friend Bud at Rapid Fire Tek allows you to adjust the length of your brace and at the same time lock the brace down to avoid spinning. A QD swivel attaches  directly, giving you a Rear Sling Mount. I will be doing a stand-alone Gear Review very soon, so stay tuned.

• Install Sling

I chose to go with a 2 point sling versus the one point, only because I have always favored using a 2 point sling most of my adult life. I went with a very simple American Made sling from Amazon for $10 (Mine is Foliage color but they also come in OD Green, Coyote and Black). I know there are better built slings out there, but IMO, a sling should be simple! One note here: Due to the integrated front sling mount on the M92, you will need a sling with a hook-type fastener. If you don’t like metal hooks, another option you might try is the Israeli Sling which I run on my other AK’s.

• Install Manticore Arms Renegade Forearm w/Optic Top Mounting Plate

After looking at either installing an Ultimak top rail, which I run on almost all my AK’s, I got sold on the Renegade because it offered basically what the Ultimak did: Co-Witness capability that is Lightweight with Flexible mounting options for a light. See, although the Renegade is a proprietary system from Manticore, you are not just limited to just using Manticore rails and mounts (like Magpul’s forearms for example).

You can buy the Forearm set with or without the Top Optic Mounting Plate, and Sven at Manticore even offers a simple cover plate for those of you that don’t want to mount an optic. The Renegade gives you 3 basic Optic Mounting Plates: The Burris Fastfire, The Aimpoint Micro or the Primary Arms Micro. I went with the Burris Fastfire, since I run this optic on another AK and have used it in the field extensively and know how tough it is.

The installation is very easy, but be warned though the tolerances are VERY TIGHT in order to make the unit fit solid on the gun. What you can do to make it go on easier is lube up the front part of the forearm that the locking collar goes around; that with some gentle tapping with a rubber mallet should enable it to go in and the locking lever to seat properly. Remember: If the lever will not lock into position, DO NOT try and force it! You also might have to lightly sand where the locking collar attaches to get a good fit. The optic plate itself locks around your gas tube with U brackets, bolts and blue loctite. The only tip I can give you here is DO NOT apply the loctite until you have your optic level and square and where you want it. There is a 5 part YouTube vid by Forever Armed that walks you through a lot of the installations I have discussed here including the Renegade. See that HERE.

• Install Light Mount and Light

Since bad guys like to operate at night, no serious “social” gun should be without a light attached, and the CO M92 has one. As I stated above, the Renegade Forearm allows the attachment of a variety of short Picatinny rails, so I used Magpul’s 3 slot MOE Polymer Rail for a mount. As for the flashlight, Earl at IWC just sent me their new Mini-CQB Weapon Light, an integrated mount+light 375 lumen powerhouse. Be on the lookout for that Gear Review Very soon as well.

• Use Quality Magazines!

I could not leave this all important part of the gun out, even though some people seem to skip it. Always remember this: ANY Semi-Automatic weapon is only going to be as reliable as the magazine feeding it. Now I am not gonna go into a long diatribe on what is and what is not a “quality” AK magazine, but I will say this: As long as European Steel Mags stay around $15, it is really a moot issue as far as I am concerned. Do I use others? Sure. Bulgarian Circle 10’s and Russian Bakelites (when I can find them). I also have a fair collection of US Palm 30’s in various hues (including the new Bakelite) which I have trained with for some time and never had an issue. I have not had a chance to try out the new Magpul PMAG Gen M3’s (not the MOE’s) but have heard semi-favorable reviews. The main thing to remember with any AK polymer mag is if it doesn’t have steel reinforced locking lugs and strong, reinforced feed lips, you can forget them. They may stand up the first few hundred rounds, but in the long stretch they will break down. The AK action is T-Rex brutal, so the mag must match it if you want consistent reliability.

Picture Show

Before

 

After
W/CNC Warrior “Shorty” Booster Brake.

 

Bolt Side

 

Manticore Arms Renegade Forearm w/Burris Fastfire II

 

Manticore Arms Eclipse Flash-Hider and Streamlight Light Mount w/ Fenix Light

 

Streamlight Illuminator Rail Mount

 

Hogue Grip

 

Rapid Fire Tek’s SB Spacer Kit w/QD Sling Swivel

 

Stay Alert, Stay Armed and Stay Dangerous!

The CO AK

I thought it pertinent to make a short list of the minimalist modifications the CO needs to do to their AK weapon system to make it run like a champ, both in class and on that HOT 360 range called LIFE.

1. TRIGGER..TRIGGER…TRIGGER

I will never forget what a very dear friend and gunsmith guru said to me many moons ago: “If you want any gun to be 100% of it’s capability, install a better trigger and you are 75% there”.

I will add a caveat here: I did not change my Arsenal 2 stage triggers…I like them! I did change all my other AK trigger though, and for that I like Red Star Adjustable triggers.

2. Trigger Pin Retainer Plate

This is a very modest modification that will save you tremendous headaches down the road as you train and put alot of rounds downrange. This is the one malfunction that can shut an AK down for good in the field. This basically replaces the shepherds crook retaining wire (spring) and is not that tough to install yourself. Everybody sells them, but I prefer Krebs…make sure to get the right model also, there is one for the Saiga Shotgun and one for the AK Rifle.

3. Muzzle Brake/Flashider

Like everything  with Gun’s, if you ask 10 AK people you will get 10 different answers on which is the best..try to find one that give you the best of both worlds..for pure flash-hiding capability I think Manticore Arms NightBrake and Nightshroud are the best products on the Market for AK rifles. For a combination Muzzle Brake and Flashider, PWS (Primary Weapon Systems)’ FSC-47 takes the prize..I have been using one for a while now and it delivers..look for a demo video soon on a night and day shoot I did recently.

4. Modern 2 Point Sling

I say “Modern” because the old school Chi-Com or Russian parade slings simply do not have enough length to them to be useful in the field; plus you need enough length to clear a chest rig or vest. The best I have found is the Israeli Kalash Slings..they use aircraft wire versus metal hooks and come in 3 different colors and are tough as hell.

5. Ultimak Optic Rail

If you decide to run a red dot or other optic, this is the best co-witnessing rail for the money. I have tried just about everything on the market and the Ultimak wins out. I am not a fan of quad rails on the AK anyways, as it makes the gun too heavy and cumbersome IMO, but the Ultimak keeps the theme of the minimalist and delivers on performance. Sidebar: It has enough rail real estate for an offset light mount and it won’t interfere with your co-witness.

6. Offset Light Mount/Light

I am a believer all your serious “social” guns needs lights on them..the AK being no exception. There is a myriad of mount choices out there, some overpriced IMO, so be careful…I mean come on dude, its a billeted piece of Aluminum and you want $70!! I have found Impact Weapon Systems to have some decent priced ones. For a light, don’t skimp out with a Wal Mart $4.99, spend some $ on a dependable, bright light, after all, this thing may save your life! 70 lumen or better is a good starting point. I also like LED’s much better than Xenon. I run a Surefire E2 LED and a Fenix P2D currently.

7. Pistol Grip

I debated on even adding this, but I do think an improved grip improves recoil control and most stock AK grips are puny and small IMO for American hands. Again, find what fits your hand and go with it. Although I would HIGHLY advise against anything TAPCO on any of your guns, the AK SAW Grip fits my huge meat hooks nicely. US PALM’s grip’s are legit also.

8. Good Mags/Ammo

Though not considered a legitimate “modification”, I wanted to include this because any semi-auto gun is only as good as it’s mags. and although steel cased Wolf is great for drills, budget for at least 3 mags of really high quality Hollow Points or Soft Points for “social problem solving”…I like Corbon DPX and Corbon Hunter 7.62×39..Hornady also makes some killer loads. The standard Euro steel mags are fine for training, but watch out for deformed feed lips after a while; when that happens, toss them.  The go-to mags I recommend are:  Authentic Russian “Bakelite”, Real Bulgarian Circle-10’s and US Palm 30’s.

In closing, keep it simple, keep it minimalist…a loaded AK is heavy enough on its own, it does not need any help.

Remember: the AK is a biker chick, the AR is a prom queen..the rougher you are with an AK, the better she likes it!!

Stay Dangerous!